| Day One: Trek to Lake Marian | | | | recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage site |
| Driving the Te Anau - Milford Road must be one of | | | | from 1986. Few tour coaches had yet to arrive so by |
| the best scenic drives in the world. First you enjoy | | | | the time we had geared up and were on our dive |
| expansive views of Lake Te Anau, then suddenly the | | | | boat, it still felt like we had the whole place to |
| open grassy Eglington valley appears, surrounded by | | | | ourselves. Chances are when you visit Milford it will be |
| mountains. You venture past the exit from the | | | | raining, as having seven metres of rain a year makes it |
| Routeburn Track before turning off into the bush clad | | | | one of the wettest places in the world. For us |
| Hollyford Valley. Just 4km down the Hollyford Road is | | | | however, we were blessed with clear blue skies and |
| the start of the walk to Lake Marian. After crossing | | | | calm waters. After cruising out along the fjord with its |
| the Hollyford River there is a spectacular series of | | | | steep rock walls towering hundreds of meters above |
| waterfalls with cantilevered boardwalks above the | | | | us we moored just beneath the towering Mitre Peak. |
| river hugging the rock face. The track gets a little | | | | Unique dive conditions are created in Milford Sound |
| rougher but just over an hour later we reached the | | | | due to the high rainfall that creates a tannin-laden |
| beautiful alpine lake, situated in a hanging valley and | | | | light-filtering freshwater layer on top of the seawater. |
| surrounded by snow-dusted peaks of the Darran | | | | For divers this means that sea creatures that would |
| Mountain range - most of which are over 2000 | | | | usually live at great depths such as black coral |
| meters. The setting is simply spectacular and equally | | | | colonies - which oddly enough are actually white to |
| as good as anything we have seen in Nepal or the | | | | look at, can be seen at only 15m. Fortunately |
| Pyrenees but without the expensive plane ticket! A | | | | non-divers can also get a glimpse of the underwater |
| picnic and a quick swim in the very chilly snowmelt | | | | world by descending the purpose-built underwater |
| lake then it was back down the track and back to Te | | | | observatory build discreetly into the side of the fjord. |
| Anau. | | | | After exploring the beautiful and unique Milford |
| Days Two and Three: Kayaking on Doubtful Sound | | | | underwater life, our dive boat crew gave us a treat by |
| A picturesque but lengthy trip took us across Lake | | | | pouring hot water down our dive suits - Milford Sound |
| Manapouri then over the Wilmot Pass and down into | | | | water registers a chilly 13 degrees even in summer. |
| Doubtful Sound. After gearing up and being instructed | | | | Dressing up warmly we explored the fiord by boat, |
| in kayak technique, we cruised off to explore the | | | | cameras clicking away at the multiple picture postcard |
| sound with 6 others for a two-day trip. Confusingly, | | | | shots. Clambering onto land right at the mouth of the |
| both Doubtful and Milford Sounds are actually not | | | | fiord near the Tasman sea, we explored the small |
| technically sounds (river valleys flooded by the sea), | | | | stone ruins of a gold prospector's hut built in the 1930's. |
| but are actually fiords - valleys scoured out by glacial | | | | Re-boarding the boat for the journey back we |
| action long ago. Paddling effortlessly along the | | | | witnessed a sea lion repeatedly tossing a fish around |
| becalmed fiord our knowledgeable guide pointed out | | | | above water, playing with it mercilessly before |
| the scars left on the towering cliffs by the glaciers and | | | | devouring it. Its friends lazed on the nearby rocks |
| extensive faulting that has shattered the rock in places. | | | | completely ignoring the intruding tourists and we |
| The wind picked up in the afternoon so we tried kayak | | | | cruised by, wowed by the many stunning waterfalls |
| sailing - hoisting a sail up the paddles at the back of | | | | and mountain vistas typical of Fiordland National Park, |
| two linked kayaks and then holding tight to the bottom | | | | in our books justifiably the number one New Zealand |
| of the sail at the front of the kayak we cruised nicely | | | | tourist attraction for New Zealanders. |
| up Hall Arm to give weary muscles a rest. | | | | Dock Bay Lodge: |
| Landing next to a fresh water stream at the end of | | | | What a treat we had in store when we chose to stay |
| the day to our relief we found that the camping spot | | | | at Dock Bay Lodge, just minutes drive from Te Anau |
| secluded in the pristine rainforest had an insect free | | | | township. This newly opened purpose-built lodge was |
| shelter. Hordes of the famous Fiordland sandflies, | | | | the dream of long-term Te Anau locals Dawn and |
| which strangely don't bother you while you are on the | | | | Mark Dowling and opened in 2006. 5 spacious suites |
| water, amassed around us as we raised our tents. | | | | with floor-to-ceiling windows overlook the tended |
| Removing the food laden-ballast from our kayak we | | | | greens of the Te Anau golf course, Lake Te Anau |
| realized we'd massively over-catered and spent the | | | | and towards the Kepler and Murchison Mountains. The |
| rest of the evening crouched over the gas stove and | | | | lodge has everything you'd expect including king-sized |
| stoking the boilers of the other kayakers. | | | | beds, spa pool, gym, fluffy bathrobes, sumptuous |
| The morning mist was just rising over the surrounding | | | | breakfasts, wireless internet, complimentary mountain |
| peaks and the sand flies appeared to have slept in as | | | | bikes and golf clubs. |
| we packed up and dipped our paddles into the crystal | | | | Guests enjoy genuine southern hospitality through |
| clear waters and headed towards another Arm of the | | | | Dawn and Mark who established the business |
| fiord. A tiny research boat shadowed some bottlenose | | | | because of a love of hosting and helping people. |
| dolphins playing, reminding us that despite the remote | | | | Focusing instead on providing a memorable experience |
| ruggedness of Doubtful Sound other people, mainly | | | | to guests rather than filling every room each night, their |
| tourists on cruise day trips, do venture into this | | | | down-to-earth yet friendly and professional style really |
| wilderness place. After paddling around Elizabeth Island | | | | made us feel at home. Dawn seemed to anticipate |
| and learning all about the edible plants that grow in the | | | | every need we might have had and was on hand to |
| New Zealand bush, we picnicked on a white-sand | | | | supply information, she prepared take-away |
| beach and carved up the delicious birthday cake that | | | | breakfasts when we rose to do activities before |
| our Lodge hosts had provided to us. Cake consumed | | | | dawn, and added little surprise treats to make our stay |
| and one last kayak up the peaceful sound and we | | | | memorable. |
| were greeted on dry land by several Keas - New | | | | So many activities are within easy reach of Dock Bay |
| Zealand's cheekiest native bird. After draining the | | | | Lodge - especially for lovers of the outdoors. A keen |
| camera battery taking photos of their antics, we | | | | national-level golfer, Dawn didn't take much persuading |
| retraced our journey back across Lake Manapouri to | | | | to join us in teeing off from the 11th fairway which |
| Te Anau again. | | | | merges with the lodge's garden. Milford and Doubtful |
| Day Four: Exploring Milford Sound | | | | Sounds are but a short drive away, the entrance to |
| Most New Zealanders have at least seen pictures of | | | | the Kepler Track is almost on the doorstep of the |
| the legendary beauty of Milford Sound, but perhaps | | | | lodge and mountain bike tracks abound. Those into |
| not so many have viewed it from both above and | | | | water sports can enjoy Lake Te Anau that the Lodge |
| below the water. Starting out early from Te Anau we | | | | overlooks, and lovers of fine cuisine can sample |
| drove the scenic Milford Road again, through the | | | | excellent New Zealand, Italian and Chinese cuisine in |
| Homer Tunnel and down into Milford Sound - | | | | the town center and environs. |